On the Hunt: Tuxedo Time

Where to begin? With web research, of course. You’d be surprised, but there’s actually quite a bit of variety that’s actually acceptable when it comes to tuxedos.

There’s single breasted and double breasted, several jacket collars, various shirt collars, ties and other accessories. But very few can pull off a double, and how many people want to wear a cumberbund, so let’s stick to what most of you (and I) find appealing.

The most important decision is probably jacket style. For a very classic look, a peaked collar, where the lower lapel extends further out that the top lapel, is the way to go. A notched lapel is perfectly acceptable and considered more of a new, casual style, but that’s the way I knew I wanted to go. There’s also shawl, which there’s no way I would wear. I start with this directory of stores and I’m off:

(1) Bergdorf Goodman: head to the open area on the 2nd floor. Of two notched collars, the Zegna ($2,000) and the Brioni ($5,000) are the only real options. Zegna has a satin collar, which seems to be more standard but I’m liking less and less, though the pants fit well. The Brioni pants are a bit full legged, but the jacket (notched with grosgrain) fits well. I pass both up, but interested by the Brioni, I continue on.

(2) Brioni: none on display, but I’m shown three what are termed “classic” looks — two shawl collars and one double breasted. The single-breasted from Bergdorf’s is not stocked. Apparently, the Brioni stores tend to carry more conservative and classic look versus the department store, I’m told.

(3) Pitstop at Turnbull & Asser: I don’t check their tuxes out, but find out that custom shirts and MTM are both $325 per shirt. MTM requires a commitment of 3 shirts for each order, while custom requires 6 shirts for your first order, 2 shirts per order thereafter. Also, I find out that their annual sale is every 2nd week in June.

4) Barneys: Nice selection. At this point in the game, I know what I want: a single breasted, grosgrain notched collar. And I’m shown The One in a matter of minutes. Price? $3,000.

Related Stories: On the Hunt for a Reasonably Priced Shirt in Paris

Other Shopping Resources:
The Knot’s Glossary of Tux Terms
NYMag goes tux shopping
NYMag’s directory of formalwear

2 Comment(s)

  1. On Jan 25, 2007, Anonymous said:

    Its spelled cummerbund

  2. On Jan 26, 2007, BankersBall said:

    cumberbund is an recognized variant, according to M-W http://www.m-w.com/cgi-bin/dictionary?book=Dictionary&va=cumberbund&x=0&y=0.

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